What’s in a Tech Package?

I was first taught how to create tech packages at Ralph Lauren by Bonita Kline. She was the one who told me to think as if you were giving the t/p to a Martian. While something might be crystal clear in your mind, to another set of eyes halfway around the globe, it is a mystery. The brain does not fill in the gaps. Same goes for pattern makers & digitizers: while a side seam or front armhole is obvious to you, it might not be so clear to someone else. When I’m asked to create 3D assets with a .dxf file and a tech package, everything I need should be in those files.

These are my requests when creating tech packages and digitizing patterns to be used by any 3rd parties:

Tech Packages:

·       Over-explain & illustrate views of a garment: front, side, back, interior, cuff detail, exploded pocket view, collar flipped up, underarm…I want to see it all.
·       Measurements (POMs) of everything: don’t just give me the basic lengths & widths of the body, the collar, cuff & a lapel. Include the pocket flap lengths AND widths, placement of waist tabs, sleeve vent lengths…I could go on and on. (this also helps with ID’ing pattern pieces that aren’t labeled. See below.)
·       Stitching details: what kind of stitch, where, distance from a seam edge, SPI, thread size.
·       Trim & Hardware: size and general idea of type so I can choose an appropriate stand-in from the 3D library.
·       Fabric: weight, weave & amount of stretch (if any) so I can choose an appropriate stand-in from the 3D library.

Digitized Pattern Files:
·       Every.Single.Pattern piece should be labeled and have “cut x” if appropriate. There are too many times to count when I have had a handful of pattern pieces frozen up in the corner of my workspace, not knowing what they are or where they go.
·       Mark CF, CB, side seams, front/back armholes, necks, pleats (with directional arrows), gathering…I want it all.
·       If you didn’t remove the seam allowances, tell us clearly how much is on the pattern. Not everyone knows that little “T” mark means there is SA on the pattern (thank you Sue Kagan!)
·       Ensure the notches match: often, the seam lines do not match due to shaping or added fullness, so the notches need to be there to ensure the garment drapes & fits correctly.

Us Martians thank you from the bottoms of our alien hearts 😊