What is a Cutter’s Must?

I’ve been working in 3D for a while now and you know what I miss? The cutter’s must. In case you don’t know what that is, it is a piece of paper that the patternmaker would attach to the pattern pieces that explained what each pattern piece was, how many to cut, any trim items and where they went, and any other pertinent garment details. I miss this handwritten, solid document direct from the source. It was trustworthy, concise, and direct.

There are no standards in Apparel manufacturing when it comes to documenting the specifications of a piece of clothing. When asked to create 3D files, you (hopefully) receive the .dxf file and a tech package. How those two are put together is anybody’s guess and are wildly different from company to factory. The first half hour to hour of any project is simply figuring out what pattern piece goes with another, and if it is a side-body panel or a waistband.

When I first started in this industry, I was taught to create a tech package as if I were sending it to a Martian who had never seen a piece of clothing before. While the creator of the pattern or garment might believe a certain pocket construction or sleeve seaming is obvious, to a 3rd party not present at its birth it will not be so. Over-explain, create a 3rd flat sketch, add a photo…or 5 to the Construction Details page of the t/p. There will be so many people who will thank you for it, including your email server.